Tuesday, September 19, 2006

'I'm a vegetarian!' she cries!!

Today I completed a short-term contract with an agency working at the National Exhibition Centre (NEC), Birmingham. I was working for a company who were exhibiting at a large three day long trades fair. They were looking for a chef to cook a barbecue menu to entice visitors to their displays and I guess in part to provide 'corporate hospitality' to potential clients. It was really a lot of fun despite several near-disasters. Yesterday, not only did I nearly not make it to work by missing the exit off and finding myself on the motorway north-bound. But I also managed (may I add through no fault of my own) to nearly burn down the NEC! But in order not to ruin mine or anyone's reputation, I will decline to say exactly what happened. It suffices to say that it was all under-control.

I cooked several dishes provided by Aubrey Allen, an excellent butchers. We offered Thai Chicken Kebabs, Pork Apple and spiced Warwickshire chipolatas, Lamb Kofta or Minted Shish Kebabs, Chinese Pork, marinated Cajun Chicken and Beef Kebab seasoned with Maldon salt and cracked black pepper. Most days I worked on the grill from about 10.30 till 3:30PM, continually cooking and handing out samples. Today, I offered my array of sizzling meats, adding a little banter about the firm I was actually representing. We had plenty of visitors (some who may have merely been there for the hospitality- we also offered drinks and other smacks. No-one need buy lunch at the NEC, you could easily have been well watered and fed by visiting our stand.

But I think the funniest event of the whole few days, was earlier today when I thought I would try and entice a couple of young teenage looking girls to a sausage or perhaps a large juicy beef kebab, slightly medium with a little pink juice seeping around the edge of the silver? As I balanced the huge platter of meats in front of one of the girls, she turned her face in disgust and cried, 'I'm vegetarian!'. For a second I thought she might have been sick right then and there, as she ran away from me in utter disgust. I could do nothing else but make a faint smile as I called after her offering a desperate (yet slightly hollow) apology.

Monday, September 18, 2006

The Gift of Life!


The other day in-between shifts at work, I sat in the office and opened a cookery book laying on the desk by Anton Mosiman. Of cause I had heard of Mosiman, but must admit I have never taken the time to learn much about him or his style of food. Oh- what I have missed! For I was about to discover, not just a very talented chef (that in itself would have been enough), but a great mind.

He writes, 'to prepare a meal carefully, with the best ingredients and only the well being of your guest in mind, is to give them a special gift- not only the gift of a memorable experience, but...and this is the moment my eyes widened...but also the gift of life' (italics added for emphasis).

'food is the sustainer of life'

I had never conceived, as a chef, that I was offering such a gift. Mosiman goes on to explain this giant statement and to elighten us further. Afterall, at the basic level, we eat food to stay alive, to sustain life. Indeed eating good food has become a human pleasure, but essentially we eat, not because we feel it might be nice, we eat because we have to. It this under-lying principle, that food sustains life, that the cook becomes to a certain degree a giver of life.

Mosiman went on to talk about his development of 'cuisine naturelle', an extension of these thoughts and ideas. However, I do not want to go in to this detail right now, as it may distract from this definitive moment. I sat in my kitchen whites, at the desk, pouring my self over these thoughts and scribbling hurried notes.

In my mind played the words again..'To prepare a meal carefully..is to give a special gift..the gift of a memorable meal..the gift of life...'.

Sunday, April 30, 2006

Good Food?

I do not often write about where I currently work in Birmingham, but have realized recenty how much I learn and how this expereince influences my whole philosophy and understanding of food. For example, last week we began to use white asparagus with two dishes on the menu. I don't think I even knew that such a thing existed, let alone tasted it before. Today, I even read a chef in America (New York restauranteur Daniel Boulud) who commented that white asparagus was infact his favourite kind. It does have a unique, individual flavour and good texture, but I believe lacks the beauty and ofcause vibrant colour of traditionally green asparagus. I must confess that I have also discovered a liking for other fine ingredients like imported black truffles and fresh turbot, with meaty, beautifully rich fish. Currently, we accompany troncettes of lobster with a fresh spaghetti, blended with parmessan, truffle oil, salt and a little freshly grated black truffle. It looks and tastes divine!

I could go on and on about the beautiful use of delicious ingredients- sometimes the very best that can be sourced, golden brown scallops with squid and saffron orzo, chicken with caramelized apple, sweetcorn and maple syrup, enormous sweet souffles with our own iced-creams. Good food? No, more, fantastic food, carefully prepared and presented with a master's touch.

Tuesday, April 25, 2006

Big Cheese Competition!



I was delighted to be invited as a National Finalist recently in the first Grana Padano Young Chefs' Competition two weeks ago. Grana Padano is an Italian hard cheese- delicious in its' own right- yet similar to parmessan. It originates from Northern Italy and infact can only be called Grana Padano if it meets the standards of a regional consortium there.

'he doesn't like to be called a celebrity-chef'

I travelled to London's Westminster College of Catering to cook my recipe for Grana Padano Cheese Souffle with Red Pesto Rattatouille. It was an arduous journey, despite the efficiency of Virgin Trains, making it from Birmingham to Euston in just 1 Hour and 29 minutes. I then dragged my luggage, including ingredients and service plates accross the underground, changing several trains, before a short taxi journey from Victoria station to the college. I was relieved to arrive in plenty of time to meet Giorgio Locatelli. Locatelli could be introduced as a 'celebrity chef', but I am told he doesn't like to be called that. Despite his successful television work with channels like UKTV Food and several accompanying books, he prefers to be recognised as a restauranteur and Michelin starred chef. Locatelli observed us prepare our dishes together in the colleges' kitchen, before presenting our dishes to his watchful eye.

'I prayed in front of the oven'

Another finalist, had the pleasure of serving before me and returned a few minutes later, looking a little sullen. He told me that, 'He didn't say anything!'. 'Nothing?', I asked. Locatelli had tasted the dish, but had said nothing. I wasn't sure what to think, but tried to encourage myself and him, by saying, 'well, that could be a good sign', but I wasn't even convincing my self.

Well, my turn soon came around, as I prayed infront of the glass fronted oven, wishing my souffle to rise. Indeed, it did and after quickly garnishing it with a little basil and a shaving of cheese, I rushed out to the retsurant table and the silence of Signor Locatelli. Once again, he leant towards it, reached his nose to the souffle and then delved his fork into the golden crust. He drew the fork to his mouth, swallowed, the silence continued and seconds began to feel like minutes. I didn't know if I should say something, 'Do...you...have any questions?' I mumbled. Silence. He took another forkful, before retreating to a nearby chair, scribbling notes on a clipboard and staring into his papers. I skuttled back to the safety of the kitchen as quickly as I could.

About half an hour later, after everyone had presented their dishes to him, Locatelli gathered us around to give a summation of his thoughts. He speaks. And we finally find out the result- I did not win, but he did speak highly of my entry and seemed to enjoy the dish, despite its simplicity. I scored lowly for creativity, but this only had a few points available, whilst scoring much more highly for taste and use of the ingredients. However, another small souffle served with generous slices of pork belly pipped me to the title and the prize of a trip to Italy.

Every finalist did win an entire wheel of cheese. It arrived last week, 36.6 kilos of Grana Padano. The largest piece of cheese I have ever seen and almost too heavy for me to lift, let alone eat. Something of a booby prize- but a very big cheese!

Monday, February 06, 2006

Vive la FRANCE

The other week I drove to Olympia, Earl's Court, London, to visit the 'Vive la France' exhibition, sponsored by the Sunday Times. It was quite an expensive day, as parking was very dear, but it was well worth it.
Vive la France was a cultural exhibition really, but it included some excellent areas on food and wine. I went with a friend from the college who is studying Hospitality Management with Food studies. There were several stands from French food suppliers including delicious cheeses, breads and cured meats and saucisson. A few of the sellers barely spoke any English at all and spoke in thick French accents. I smiled particulalry as we approached a stand with a man wearing a slightly faded blue apron, his rounded waist hanging over the apron strings and a large black moustache. I only wish he wore a beret!
We sampled several really nice cheeses including a cheese made from Ewe's milk and a wild Boar saucisson. As a family I have travelled to France on many occassions and had the opportunity to visit several regions from the Jura neighbouring the Italian and Swiss borders, to Biartitz on the Spanish border and of cause areas of Paris and Normandy. Such visits have always included visits to art galleries and museums accompanied by vivid memories of fresh food and beautiful landscapes. France is a country I can return to again and again and never be dissapointed.
We also enjoyed watching a few live demonstrations from Jean Christophe Novelli, Raymond Blanc and Michel Roux Junior. These are all very acclaimed and talented French chefs. Novelli recently opened a new gastro-pub in Harpenden, which is receiving some good reports, but probably much of this hype is associated with his name, more than the food. Raymond Blanc has made such a name for himself taht we probably only need to mention hsi name and it is synonymous with classicial fresh French cooking. Roux- well everything speaks for itself, but I am still surprised by how many people have not heard of the Roux brothers. Albert and Michel Roux arrived in England in the early 70's and swiftly opened a highly successful restaurant in central London. Over 30 years later, Le Gaveroche still remains at the centre of London's culinary map. Michel Roux Jr has taken over the reins from his father, Albert, but it is in very safe hands. Meanwhile, Michel moved to the Berkshire village of Bray, to run the Waterside Inn, beside the Thames. His son, Alain Roux now runs most of the business, but it is all a family affair. I first heard of the Roux brothers shortly after I first left catering college and they continue to inspire me.

There is more to French cooking, as we embrace other cultures and ingredients, but everything seems to flow back to the mouth of the river, the fountain's spring. Vive la France.