Waterside Lunch!

Sometime ago I meant to post this entry about my visit for lunch at Alain and Michel Roux's 'The Waterside Inn', Bray. Just before I left the Fat Duck in August, I decided to dine at the village's other three Michelin starred restaurant, 'The Waterside Inn' and I arrived with great expectations.

The Waterside Inn calls itself 'un restaurant avec chambres', in typical French style- literally, a restaurant with rooms. Not that I could ever afford to stay there, mind you. As I arrived, slightly early, I was warmly greeted by a tall French man with thinning white hair and suddenly I realized that I was shaking hands with Michel Roux himself. I was invited to sit in the lounge area beside the reception desk and sat back in a large comfortable sofa. I began to speak to a well-dressed American couple sitting just opposite me. I asked them if they had travelled far and they 'matter of factly' detailed how they had last night been staying in Hamburg on the Queen Mary, a luxury cruise and were due to fly back to New York at 4PM. It was already nearly 12:30PM and they were still at least an hour away from Heathrow. They told me that since they were in London, they thought that they would come for lunch. But I mean, why not?

I ordered an aperitif and began to read the Lunch Menu. Inside, the first page, reads a message from Michel,

'Whatever the meal, we believe in cooking and eating the best produce available. Usually this is as simple as respecting the seasons and the result of a good working relationship with a supplier. Now that summer has arrived, we cook inhaling the aromas of English tomatoes and peas, asparagus grown in the salt marshes in Cornwall, peaches and strawberries from Kent, each served with delicate light sauces. Rose petals from our neighbour Mandy's garden flavour the sorbet. Scallops, lobsters and wild salmon arrive from Scotland daily. We source our oysters from Colchester, Aberedeen Angus beef from Speyside and New Season lamb from the West Country, usually flavoured with herbs from our garden...
We should follow nature's recommendations, as there is no doubt that she knows best!'

When shown to my table in the airy, spacious restaurant area, I was almost immediately presented with a large dish of delicious canapes. These included a delicate cheese brioche, Melba toast with chicken liver pate and sultana, filo pastry with broccoli, green beans, cauliflower and celery wrapped in a slightly spiced tomato dressing, fresh Halibut with horseradish carefully enveloped in bread and a baby courgette with mixed vegetables. This impressive selection was accompanied simply by a small Beetroot masterfully sculpted in to an elegant flower and a single piece of flat leaf parsley. It truly needed no other work.


Parts of the hotel and restaurant are distinctively traditional, fairly elaborate and formal in decor, whilst the restaurant itself is surprisingly different in ambiance. It is extremely simply in furnishings- plain white table cloths with small floral decorations and simple wooden chairs. There are no exaggerated fittings; I sat at a small circular table beside the window and yet nothing needed to be overstated.

The General Manager had spoken to me briefly earlier and when discovering that I was a Catering student, he had declared in a heavy French accent, 'Well then, let us surprise you!'. No order was taken, I simply received course after course.

I began with a Chicken Consomme garnished with a fine julienne of chicken breast, diced red and green pepper, tomato and herbs, including fresh tarragon and chive, with a swirl of truffle flavoured cream. The clear, translucent soup was chilled and slightly set, so that when cut with a large silver soup spoon, the consomme flowed gently into the cream. And when tasted, each flavour could be appreciated collectively and a lone. The consomme was filled with subtle flavours and left a clean, smooth taste and texture in the mouth. This was a superbly light and enjoyable beginning on a warm, late summer afternoon.

Next, I was presented with a small silver tureen resting on a little porcelain dish. The waiter removed the lid to reveal a lobster tail and claw, sitting in a port and vegetable sauce with a slight hint of ginger. The tail was meaty, slightly chewy, but well cooked. At first, I was uncertain how to tackle the claw (this isn't really the kind of place where one can use your hands, is it?). But I discovered that it was so well prepared and cooked, that by simply inserting my knife carefully between the shell and meat, it pulled easily and cleanly away from the claw, revealing a tender and equisite pink piece of fish. There was a marked distinction in both taste and texture between each piece of fish, with the claw being significantly more tasty and firm.

I gazed out of the window over looking the River Thames and a large weeping willow gently swaying in the breeze. Occasionally a small boat would pass by, birds glided through the sky, the sun reflected on the rippling water, the setting was perfect.

Several minutes later, I enjoyed a single seared Scallop accompanied by a small herb salad of parsley and coriander with baby squid, accompanied by a refreshing seaweed tartar dressing with a few toasted sesame seeds. The scallop was an attractive golden brown and when cut revealed a soft, delicately cooked centre. There were no dominant flavours- everything seemed well balanced and in perfect proportion to each other. There were subtle after-tones and interesting combinations of taste.

I sipped on a refreshing Pink Fruit Cocktail, served with straws, ice and thin slices of orange and lime. I sat back, relaxed and paused.
Service at the Waterside Inn is personal and attentive. Each dish is not only carefully placed, but explained at length. At times it may have felt to me that there were slightly too many waiters hovering around, however this feeling may have been increased because I was eating alone and slightly more aware of their presence. This being said, the ambiance of the restaurant is certainly comfortable, relaxed, friendly- yet slightly formal.

My main course (also a complete surprise) was served on a large glistening plate with a huge silver cloche. Once removed, I was presented with thinly sliced lamb, slightly pink, served on a sweet tasting vegetable puree, surrounded by carefully turned carrots, halved broad beans and mange tout, with a crispy golden rosti, watercress and a thin jus.Everything here was again- absolutely delicious! The lamb was perfect- cut easily with the edge of my fork. The vegetables were just cooked, soft, yet maintaining all their beautifully bright, natural colours and taste. The rosti was a perfect accompaniment, offering something slightly crunchy and crisp, to an otherwise delicate, soft dish.

A young couple in a table near by to me ordered a whole French Duck which was presented on a trolley, then carved and served at their table by two waiters. The young man made me smile, as he exaggerated his reaction to each course. Whenever asked, the food was always, 'Fabulous..magnifacent..marvelous..wonderful!'. I wanted him to declare that it was 'stupendous', or to use a long string of compliments in one full swing, sadly (to my extreme disappointment) he did not.

I chose desert from the Menu Gastronomique and thoroughly enjoyed a dark luxurious Chocolate and Raspberry roulade. Following dessert, I was presented with an impressive array of petit fours including soft peppermint marshmallow, fruit jellies with sugar, toffees, nougats and tartlets filled with patisserie cream and passion fruit. At least 10 sweet delights, sadly far too many for one! I left at least half of them.

Following my meal, I sat reflecting for a minute or two, before leaving the table and sitting outside on the picturesque decking beside the water's edge.

It was really a wonderful ending to a fabulous, magnificent, marvelously stupendous lunch!